Masculine fabrics and silhouettes reinvented for the modern woman is how we sum up Fendi’s FW17 collection of ready-to-wear showcased in Milan Fashion Week. Take the opening look as a perfect example; a gray herringbone double-breasted coat with deep mink cuffs circling bracelet-length sleeves, paired with a Prince of Wales bias-cut midi, red pointy boots, and a slim “Lady” bag on a double-F logo handheld strap. Everything else that followed gave us the same strong, independent vibe— structured coats paired with loose flowy pants, pleated midi skirts. But that was not all; we saw graphic prints in vine-leaf motifs that appeared both printed in white on a beautiful cornflower blue silk dress and intarsia-ed into furs.
The accessories The bags had a great twist to it too, with the well-loved peek-a-boo given a new update. The year of Fendi’s founding, 1925, appeared in Roman numerals woven into belts and cuffs; the sleek over-the-knee boots were in what Harlech called “sealing-wax red,” and the Fendi logo appeared both in its new single and throwbacks to its original interlocking double-F form. Standouts were the slick fit-and-flare black leather raincoat, super-elegantly walked by Imaan Hammam, and the surprise tucked into the intarsia fur look worn by Sohyun Jung—a ’70s vintage-y double-F logo bag printed in the colors of a stained glass window.